The Legend of the Motorcycle


 

                                                                         
   
  A celebration of the art of the motorcycle.
 
 
   
  Big Uwe's girl friend Tracy enjoyed the show and the ride down the coast.
 
 
   
  Jared Zaugg, event organizer
 
 
   
  Legendary marques, classic lines.
 
 
   
  This is Burt Munro’s Indian, the actual machine around which the movie The World’s Fastest Indian was based.
 
 
   
  Ness-talgia by Arlen Ness
 
 
   
  With the legendary Jesse James.  Photo by Sandra Bullock.
 
 
   
  Jesse's wild custom bike, ready for take off.
 
 
   
  Gold Digger by Jesse James.
 
 
   
  The Crocker, the “world’s first superbike”
 
 
   
  The legendary Britten.
 
 
   
  From Obi-Wan Kenobi to The Long Way Round: at the Concours with Ewan McGregor.
 
 
   
  Legendary stunt man and racer Bud Ekins judging the classics.
 
 
   
  With Peter Fonda.
 
 
   
  With the legendary Mert Lawwill
 
 
Greetings, Cruisers,

May 6, 2006: Several members of Cruiser Customizing including Big Uwe and Kyle, along with Kyle’s dad, rode their bikes over to Half Moon Bay to attend the Legend of the Motorcycle. I was there, too, along with over four thousands other riders. We hope that some of you also were in attendance.

I arrived early for the Legend of the Motorcycle, the much-anticipated two-wheel Concours d’Elegance. The show was expected to be a milestone event in the long and laudable history of motorcycling, and no attendee would be disappointed. There, shrouded in foggy mists overlooking the Great Pacific, stood some of moto-history’s extraordinary sentinels, milestone machines of the rarest breeds. From an 1895 Pennington and 1901 Quadracycle to the futuristic Jet Bike of Arlen Ness and the airplane-engine powered FTW of Jesse James; the show ran the gamut of more than a Century of Progress. Here was a Festivity of Motorcycle Masterpieces, each creation worth its weight in gold. The Monets of motorcycling stood alongside the Rembrandts of riding. It was the entire history of motorcycling on exhibit; landmark bikes built by men of vision for no other reason other than if it can be done, then it must be accomplished.

Not surprisingly, the custom rides of Jesse James and Arlen Ness seemed to draw the biggest crowds…

I respectfully greeted Arlen Ness as he strolled up to his Ness-talgia, the yellow ’57 Chevy Bel Air-styled custom that I once had the honor of riding alongside one fine afternoon a few years ago. Just then, Jesse James approached Arlen and his wife Bev with all the due respect that a younger artist holds for an elder. “This is Sandy,” he said casually. Arlen cordially smiled and took the hand of Jesse’s lovely wife Sandra Bullock.  The show was sparkling with a constellation of moto-celebrities.

The journalist in me focused the Canon XT upon Sandra, and she stepped out of the eye of the lens. Without a hint of condescension, she explained, “We’re not here for that. I’m attending the event to be with my husband.” So I took a chance, “Since I can’t photograph you, will you kindly take a picture of me with your husband?” “Sure will,” she consented snapping the shot as Jesse smiled into the camera.

One of the bikes that Jesse showed was his powder blue and gold stretchbike Gold Digger, a sumptuous sixties-style custom that Jesse recently featured on his Discovery Channel special entitled “The History of the Chopper.” Choppermania is a recent phenomenon on the TV tube, yet Jesse’s own program with its emphasis upon the roots of the craft of bike customization combined with his lasting respect for past artists, made this historical documentary easily the best motorcycle program ever. In “History of the Chopper” Jesse James has emerged as a talented writer/producer, a man of multi-faceted talents who knows the technique of conveying reverence for those whose footsteps in the sands of time have imprinted their influence upon the emerging artists of the custom ride. The Gold Digger bike is built upon an old-school frame that Jesse and his long-time buddy Simo chanced upon in the back of a pick-up at the Ventura Swap Meet in 1991. That frame would prove to be nothing less than a gold strike for Jesse. For a decade and a half later, the modern legend celebrated his roots in bike fabrication as he built Gold Digger from the ground up before the TV cameras. The construction of Gold Digger for “History of the Chopper” takes us viewers along for a spirited ride of discovery through layers of lost decades like a Sierra prospector digging for gold.

I noticed Jesse spending several minutes absorbed in contemplation of the Britten race bike from New Zealand that rested alongside his own creations. I must have interrupted his thoughts as I began narrating to him what I know of this particular Britten, as follows:

Owned by Prof. Virgil Elings, a historic bike racer and past professor of Physics at the University of California, Santa Barbara, Elings years ago invented a microscope that sees atoms. When Elings told his University that he wanted to market his invention, the system tried to step in and appropriate his work. Like a proper biker, Prof. Elings advised the UC management that they could take their policies and shove them, whereupon he quit his job and started up his own company. Eventually, with profits from sales, Elings founded a motorcycle museum at Solvang, California; America’s “Danish Capital.” Prof. Elings’ 1000 cc V-twin Britten is the only one of the ten racers that late New Zealander John Britten built that has never been raced. I concluded my narration to Jesse with the words, “Eventually Prof. Elings sold his company for $100 million.”

“Was that $100 or $200 million?” The query came from behind me. As I turned around, I was surprised to find none other than Prof. Elings himself standing there, correcting me as though he was still standing before a class. Elings turned to Jesse and asked, “Say, I’ve got some Harley gas tanks, will you sign them for me?”

Right, Professor, $200 million was the correct amount, wasn’t it?

I turned to Sandra and mentioned that Jesse is in his element now that he has emerged as a talented writer/director, and she agreed with enthusiasm. Will Sandra Bullock’s creative touch also lend itself to future shows by Jesse James? We can only wait and see…and hope. I wanted to get in one last question, so I asked: “By the way, Sandra, do you ride?” I asked. “Sure do,” she replied, “I especially enjoy dirt biking!” Now we know what sets this jewel of the silver screen apart from other Hollywood glitterati. She's a rider just like you and me.

I spotted another young biker who seemed to stand out from the crowd, so I took a gamble and told him that he looked familiar. “I’m an actor,” he replied in the Scottish accent of a cultured gentleman. “And what might your name be?” I asked clumsily. “Ewan McGregor” he replied.  I know that anyone under thirty-five could never forgive me for not recognizing the brilliant Star Wars star, who played Obi-Wan Kenobi.  But for us riders, Ewan is better known for his book and seven-part video series Long Way Round: Chasing Shadows across the World, about his 20,000 mile circumambulation of the globe on a BMW GS along with his friend and fellow actor Charley Boorman (who also rode a GS). Ewan pointed to an old Indian twin and asked me why dual pipes emit from each of two cylinders. “Well,” I said hesitantly, “It’s like my India-built Jawa, which is a twin pipe single. It provides better exhaust.” (Readers can inform me if I was correct or just bluffing with a bad guess!)  Within a few hours of my conversation with Ewan, I was to learn that both his book Long Way Round and mine, Motorcycle Yoga, had made the “Best Of…” moto-book list in Britain’s BIKE Magazine Guide to the World supplement for March of ’06.

As I strolled past more moto-masterpieces, renowned judges were busy evaluating the more than 250 classics on display. Legendary stunt rider and judge Bud Ekins was hard at work taking notes, though he has been in a wheel chair since last year, when in his mid-seventies at a race in Ireland he took a nasty spill. It was Bud who did that legendary jump for Steve McQueen in the movie The Great Escape, Hollywood’s first-ever thousand dollar stunt, and it was he who accompanied Steve to Europe to participate in the International Six Day Trials (ISDT) event. At Steve’s request, Bud also appeared in Bullitt as not only the bike rider who slid his bike down in front of a speeding car but also as the driver of the Mustang getting air atop the hills of San Francisco.

AMA Hall of Famer Bud Ekins scored gold four times at the ISDT, silvered once, and is the founder of the Baja 1000 off road race. Bud had told us at the press meeting earlier, “Back in the fifties and sixties you couldn’t meet the movie stars at Hollywood; they were down at my motorcycle shop.” Displayed here along the green lawn of the Ritz were several of Steve McQueen’s old bikes, as well as rides once owned by James Dean, Elvis, Roy Rogers and others.

Judge Oriol Puig Bulto, one of the founders of Bultaco Motorcycle Company, manufacturers of that once-great dirt and hill climbing bike of Spain, was busy examining serial numbers and restorations for accuracy. Then as Judge Peter Fonda strolled past a pristine white Mars motorcycle, a rare marque from Germany, I asked the Mars’ European owner if he had met the Easy Rider star. “Oh Peter Fonda, is he here?” the Mars owner, “Classic Bike Mike” Kron asked loudly and enthusiastically. “Yes,” I replied, “he’s standing right next to you!”

I recognized Hall of Fame luminary Mert Lawwill, a celebrated rider of quiet accomplishment and overpowering celebrity as he made his way through the sea of bikers. Mert is best known as the star of the all-time number one motorcycle film On Any Sunday, and was the AMA Grand National Champion in 1969. Today Mert is famous for his beautifully crafted Harley XR-type street trackers, which he hand builds in Northern California. But Mert asked me to mention to the members of Cruiser Customizing that he is currently designing and manufacturing prosthetic limbs to help disabled motorcyclists get back into the saddle again.  Learn more about Mert’s compassionate work by visiting www.mertlawwill.com.

As the day came to a close, I found myself sitting with the wife, children, grandchildren and great grandchildren of Al Crocker, whose Los Angeles-built Crocker motorcycle has been dubbed “the world first superbike.” It was no surprise that each family member of the Crocker clan cherishes the memory of their illustrious and ingenious patriarch. Deservingly, the Crocker Motorcycle was the star of the show, and in fact, a 1940 Crocker won the Best of Show award. I am sure that all members of Cruiser Customizing share my pride in being part of motorcycling, rich with history and development. I know all members of Cruiser Customizing are proud to be riders at a time when the contributions of so many individuals have contributed to us finding our own Shared Passion and Individual Style.

Like the bikes themselves, the organizers, Brooke Roner and her husband Jared Zaugg built the Legend of the Motorcycle from a dream. Their vision and dedication deserve kudos from all riders in all quarters, as well as for their superb handling of the details. The event, featuring Vincent, Excelsior and Henderson, will be held again next year. By all means, Cruisers, mark your calendar for the first Saturday in May, 2007!

Cruise and be happy,
Miles Davis, (Pavandas)
Editor, Cruiser Customizing News


         
   

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GAS PRICES LEADS TO HIGHER MOTORCYCLE RIDERSHIP

GAS PRICES LEADS TO HIGHER MOTORCYCLE RIDERSHIP
Among Experienced Riders, 41% Say They Ride More

Livermore, CA – June 1, 2006. Cruiser Customizing, Inc., a leading online reseller of motorcycle parts, accessories and apparel with 100,000 members, released the results of an online poll among its membership regarding the impact of gas prices on motorcycle ridership.

When asked “does a higher gas price effect your riding?” 825 motorcycle owners responded. Of that number, 41% said they ride more, 3% said they ride less and 56% said there was no change.

“While you’d think that high gas prices would cause higher motorcycle usage,” said Uwe Druckenmueller, CEO of Cruiser Customizing, Inc., “we were surprised at how significant the number was.”

Eighty-seven percent of Cruiser Customizing’s membership base is 26-55 in age, 44% have a college education, 75% are married, and more than half have a household income of more than $50,000 yearly. Ninety percent consider themselves experienced riders.

About Cruiser Customizing, Inc.

Cruiser Customizing, Inc., located in Livermore California, is a leading online reseller of motorcycle parts, accessories and apparel. In just a few short years, it has developed a member base of over 100,000. Its community of users is one of its primary strengths: feedback leads to better selection of products and overall customer satisfaction. The company can be reached at www.cruisercustomizing.com.

© 2006 Cruiser Customizing, Inc. All trademarks are the property of their respective owners.

Backfire

4. Backfire
       
Tastes in art are highly individual. As anyone will tell you, “Beauty is to the eye of the beholder.” Be that as it may, not even a few appreciated my praise of Schmidt’s Spirit. One letter suggested that there are thousands of Spirits that look better than that “abortion on two wheels.” Another member with a more liberal point of view, Scott Spayer, allowed that “everyone has their idea of what looks good and what doesn’t.” Still, Scott didn’t think the Spirit was worth the praise I gave it. Sam Rodriguez called the bike “hideous” and said that “nothing flows with anything.”  Another member advised me to “educate myself.”

Well, OK, guys.  What can I say?  I still like Schmidt’s Spirit. It’s purple and it’s cool. It has a nostalgia buzz for me: sorta like a three quarter version of the old-school panhead and shovelhead choppers I used to admire outside Pepe’s Pizza on Telegraph Ave where I used to hang in Berkeley in the 1960’s. Bikes that belonged to the guys who were early innovators and inventors of the chopper concept. But more than that, I admire Paul Schmidt’s spirit of returning to moto-cruising and moto-customization after a hiatus of a quarter century—and taking his lady along for the ride! That is where my praise for Schmidt’s spirit truly lies. It’s the lure of the bikes, bro’s. Irresistible.

Still, we at Cruiser Customizing truly do appreciate all your responses. We are a forum for all riders and there is certainly room for all sorts of opinions. Thanks, Cruisers for the feedback. It’s been a lesson in post-graduate customization, for sure. And the beat goes on…

In our April 1st Newsletter “A New Type of Motorcycle?” we promised you a picture of this revolutionary bike. We finally received it, view picture. Happy April Fools everybody.

Cruiser Paul Mink sent in these profound words: “With drivers it’s about the destination, but with riders it’s about the journey. One is daydreaming, while the other is experiencing. Longing for… vs. grateful for… I am grateful to be awake and enjoying this journey…”

Big Uwe dug this up for us and was in a mood to sh-a-a-a-re: “People are more violently opposed to fur than to leather because it is safer to harass rich women than motorcycle gangs.”

Thanks, and keep sending those e-letters.
Cruise and be happy,
Miles Davis, (Pavandas)
Editor, Cruiser Customizing News

Lifetime Exhaust Warranty from Cobra

          Tim McCool, President of Cobra Engineering, recently announced that his company will offer a limited lifetime warranty on their superb exhaust systems. Here are Tim’s words: “Should something be deemed defective by Cobra under the terms of the warranty we will repair or replace the system for the original owner as long as it is installed on the original bike.

Cobra is celebrated through the industry as a leader in high quality pipes, and Cruiser Customizing has a full selection at the best price with free shipping. While you are checking out the full terms of Cobra’s guarantee at www.cobrausa.com, also check out Cobra’s mind-boggling on-line gallery of fantastic show bikes.  Wow!

Win This Bike!

1. Kuryakyn's Bike Build and Bike Give-Away!


 

                     
   
  You could be the winner of the Kuryakyn Custom
 
 
   
  Cruiser Customizing’s Kyle Bradshaw (l.) with Mark Wolfram of Kuryakyn and Jessica Prokup, Editor of RoadBike Magazine
 
 
   
  The Kuryakyn Custom redefines smooth.  And all it took was fifteen hours.
 
   
  Kyle cranks up the X for the cameras.  You could be next.
 
   
  On the set of Chopper Nation, Kyle gets ready to release the clutch as the ESPN crew scopes the Kuryakyn Custom through the camera.
 
Pick up the May issue of Road Bike magazine, which hits the stands on April 11th, and check out the cover shot of the stunning candy apple red VTX 1800F. Fully personalized here at Cruiser Customizing, this beautiful brute has been magically transformed from stock using only high quality, easy-to-install Kuryakyn parts. Cruiser Customizing has donated this dazzling X-custom to the 2006 Road Bike Sweepstakes, and if you are the lucky winner, you could be cruising on this sweet red ride forever.

Cruiser Customizing’s Director of Customer Service Kyle Bradshaw accomplished the entire process of artistic individualization in a mere fifteen hours using only basic shop tools. Fifty form-fitting parts completed Kyle’s labor of love. It’s much easier than you might think to transform an ordinary factory ride into a reflection of who you are, and Kuryakyn’s lines of daring products are the keys to adding character to any cruiser. Known either as the Kuryakyn Custom or Everybody’s Custom, the detailed photos of this centerfold cruiser in Roadbike Magazine will make your mouth water.

When customizing the Kuryakyn way, you get detailed instructions in real English with every part. Kuryakyn’s reputation is based not only upon the superiority of their products, but the perfect fit and ease of installation built into each mod. Kyle’s VTX project was filmed for a forthcoming episode of ESPN2’s Chopper Nation, so be sure to check your local listings.

By teaming up with Road Bike Magazine and Kuryakyn, Cruiser Customizing has proven that now moto-personality is easier and simpler than ever. You do not need a shop as big as your gym, nor a three-month leave of absence from work, to turn your ride into one that will spin every head on the street. All it takes is a week-end. The lucky winner of the Kuryakyn Custom will be announced later this year by RoadBike magazine. So visit www.roadbikemag.com to find out how to enter. Shared Passion. Individual Style. With Cruiser Customizing and Kuryakyn it all just got a whole lot easier.

See more details of Everybody's VTX with an interactive parts list.

A NEW TYPE OF MOTORCYCLE?

Cruiser Customizing part time staffer Wilhelm “Meatgrinder” Hamburger spotted an unusual motorcycle parked at a nondescript motel along a Bay Area backroad last week.  Thinking that the design of the ride roughly resembled his own VTX 1800C, he throttled down to the parking lot to have a closer look.  Meatgrinder notes, “There it sat between an old Volkswagen microbus painted with flowers and an orange Chevy El Camino with a lawnmower and beer can empties in the back.  The bike was camouflaged, in fact it was painted camouflage, so that’s a no-brainer.  Other than a few mysterious factory designations spray painted on the fender, the brute was shorn of any and all insignias.  The finned V-twin motor was massive, the meaty rear tire was as big as a pick-up’s and it had a strange set of controls, gauges and on-board computers that I could not fathom.  This bike was out of the Twilight Zone, a gorgeous two-wheeled Hummer and all I could think was ‘Man! Do I want to ride this!’

“Anyway, I heard loud music coming from a nearby room.  It was Tom Petty on the CD singing ‘Free Falling”, so I figured that was the right door to bang on. Was I surprised when none other than the legendary L. A. bike tester-guru Umberto ‘Crazy Horse’ de la Raza poked out his head.  Apparently Umbie, as he is known among the inner circles, was in a mood to talk since he had been kickin’ back sudso, so I figured it was a good time to prime him for facts.  Umbie mumbled that he had just ridden the beast up the I-5 from La La Land, and was on his way to test the bike in the mountains and valleys of the Gold Country Sierra.  He said, the bike, code-named ‘Armageddon’ is a new model from across the puddle that will be likely be released this summer as a 2006 ½ model.  Umbie mentioned that this soon-to-enter-production Armageddon sports a 2600cc V-twin mill that is actually lighter than the 1300 VTX two-banger due to new developments in alloy aluminum.  There are three triple-point spark plugs per cylinder head in order to assure full across-the-chamber combustion, with an highly oversquare piston ratio that gives the exhaust note a resonance similar to a middle East battlefield.  To meet legal requirements, the factory has had to regulate the brake horsepower down to 180, but the rev limiters can easily be chucked and exchanged for a chip that’ll propel Armageddon’s output to the 210+ hp range.  Top speed is just shy of 200 mph, and it encounters no speed wobble due to a reverse gyroscopic onboard lean sensor.

“Umbie let out that the bike’s coolest asset is its electronic anti-wheely messaging system that keeps the front wheel exactly five inches above the asphalt during spirited acceleration, no matter how throttle-happy the rider. The rear wheel was chrome-spoked and sported an all-black 330 rear tire that has a new patented tread design.  This so-called “Juggernaut tread” keeps the bike grounded and secure in almost any handling situation, making the Armageddon a cruiser that sport riders can use for a day of knee scraping at the track. There is even a full surround air bag deployment system which literally keeps the rider and passengers off the ground in case of a spill, holding them aloft like a stationary parachute.  Not just a cruiser and sport bike in one, it is also a family vehicle that can legally accommodate up to two passengers in the USA (due to its length), or three in most European countries.  This added passenger system has been implemented via an ingenious set of extra gel seats hidden in the titanium rear fender. Thus the bike is the first to be awarded the coveted ‘Family Sport Cruiser’ designation, and may be dubbed the FSC 1.

“Umberto gave me a guilty look like he had spilled too many beans about this magnificent motorcycle, and then swore me to secrecy, noting that ‘he does have a long record and is not afraid of anybody.’  He was talking so much, I hated to interrupt him, so I blurted out, ‘Umbie, who is manufacturing this monster?’  Just then a curvaceous blonde holding a tall bottle of California merlot ambled up and Umbie excused himself with the words, Sorry, Dude, the cleaning lady’s here.’  Then he disappeared into the room and closed the curtains.”

Meatgrinder said that he got some film shots of the beast after Umbie disappeared, and he’ll make these photos available at www.CruiserCustomizing.com in a couple of days.  He also mentioned that he heard there will be a new category of racing implemented at the major league race circuits for the Family Sport Cruiser class of beast and that we should keep our eyes peeled for stunning reviews of its overall design in the next issues of the major national bike rags. Meatgrinder even challenged Umbie to race the Armageddon FSC 1 against his VTX on the Speedvision show Pinks.  Umbie scowled and said, “Bike testing is my sacred duty, Man. This babe is not mine to play with.   But I’ll race you any day you want to lose your wheels to my personal ride.”

About all of this, there’ll be more to follow, no doubt, as things develop…

Throttle Therapy

Throttle Therapy

A couple of issues ago we explored how the demands of motorcycling make riding a healthy alternative to cars. Did you know that motorcycling is also a fine mental exercise that sharpens a number of mental functions including the intelligence, physical co-ordination and overall alertness? At least this is the opinion of San Francisco-based licensed psycho-therapist Roger Lake, as well as any number of riders. You know the old saying, “You never see a motorcycle outside a shrink’s office, unless it belongs to the shrink.” Roger has been a rider for thirty years now, and he swears that using his two wheels to commute to work keeps him mentally alert and ready to deal with the many problems his clients need to discuss with him.

In an interview for Cruiser Customizing News with yours truly, Roger said this of motorcycling, “Motorcycling keeps you awake, alive and attentive because it is a demanding type of sport. Except that in motorcycling the only team member is the one holding the handlebars. The thrill of the ride releases to the brain all sorts of chemicals that keep the rider healthy; it’s an adrenaline rush that raises the functions of the mind to the next level. For group riders, it provides a strong bonding experience. Then, if there is any sort of near-encounter, the motorcyclist benefits from his own introspection because he must demand of himself, ‘What is my part in this?’

“Motorcycling clearly endows the rider with a sense of awe, even to the point of a spiritually-based awareness regarding the fragility of life, which is a healthy perspective. Riding demands an awareness that makes the rider live his life to the fullest simply because he knows that any moment could be his last. This sense of inner vision shared by riders is a very healthy, yet spiritual, point of view. Personally, I’m no different from any other rider. We all love our motorcycles.”

And how true it is! The other day while riding down Columbus Ave. in the right lane, I moved my head left to check the left lane of traffic. A pickup truck driver beside me on my left noticed my head movement and immediately braked to let me move over in front of him. Usually it takes turn signals, frantic arm movements and even grimaces to get cell-phone chatting drivers to notice a motorcyclist. So instead of taking the spot in front of the truck, I throttled down to his passenger side window, which was open. “Hey, man, do you ride?” I called in to his truck. “Sure do, bro’. Ride on.” He responded, flashing a V sign. Here was a fine example of the sort of motorcyclist’s alertness that psycho-analyst Roger Lake discusses above. It is an alertness that carries into other aspects of the motorcyclist’s life, from driving a car or truck, for example, to all other daily affairs. This is the quality that separates riders from—well, excuse the expression—civilians.

A friend of mine, a skilled rider from an early age, recalls that when he took his automobile driving license examination for the first time, the tester said to him, “I see that you ride a motorcycle.” “How did you know?” My friend asked, dumbfounded. “Because you are alert,” the tester responded. “I always know when I test a motorcyclist because they see the whole picture in front of them.”

If you have any feedback on your feelings of Throttle Therapy, Cruisers, please e-mail us with your thoughts and ideas. We want to hear your opinions.


Miles Davis, (Pavandas)
Editor, Cruiser Customizing News

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East is East

Greetings Cruisers,

             
    This is a sign from Delhi.

             
   One day Anuji loaned me his Royal Enfield custom with 90,000 kilometers on the clock. That was the day the carburetor decided to self-eject. An impromptu team of passersby tried to rectify the situation, but no avail. There were internal problems in the one-lung causing excessive pressure to blow off the carb.

             
   India’s roads are dangerous and account for 6% of all the motor vehicle accidents in the world. This truck driver survived unharmed but shaken. When we came upon him, we offered him our food which he gladly accepted.

             
   One day south of Nagpur we encountered a caravan of traveling Gypsies. Originally from Rajasthan, these Indian Gypsy clans are the source of all Gypsy tribes throughout the world.

             
   Hanging with the police force at Sleemanabad, named for Col Sleeman who wiped out the murderous thuggee cult. On our right (outside the lens) is the tree where Col. Sleeman hanged over five hundred rogues.

             
   At a festival of indigenous tribal dances, descendants of Africans living on India's West coast dragged me on stage to accompany them in a celebration of peacock dancing, motorcycle boots and all.

             
   Before we picked up the bikes, I stopped with the family at the beautiful Taj Mahal. Said to have been once a great Hindu temple to Lord Shiva on the banks of the Yamuna River, invaders converted it into a place of burial for King Shahjahan’s wife, Mumtaj.


I’m back from an awesome moto-adventure through Central India and it’s good to be in touch with all of you once again. I wish that I could have taken all of you with me. Just a small riding party of 100,000 of our best members at CruiserCustomizing.com cruising from the Himalayas to the Indian Ocean!

Several Cruisers have asked me about riding India, so here’s a snapshot. India’s deep heartland holds some of the remotest places on earth, home to primitive tribesmen who will gladly send a spear through any outsider who strays into their territory. My ride skirted such tribal areas, but even Indians are not allowed to penetrate regions reserved for the uncivilized. Anuji, an Indian rider I spent a few days touring with, told me of his strange experience of spotting such a prehistoric tribeswoman, who had strayed onto the road for some reason of her own. Such people are almost never encountered by the outside world.

I took along with me one American riding companion, a Harley rider named Fred who had read my book Motorcycle Yoga, and who sort of dared me to include him the next time I duplicate the journey outlined in Motorcycle Yoga. Indian traffic is legendary for its dangers and her roads are considered the world’s deadliest. We saw our share of collisions, dozens of them, but wisdom prevailed and we managed to stay out of harm’s way. On our slow three week drift into an ancient past we covered only around a hundred miles per day slowing down to capture the old world’s sense of timelessness, so different from our alarm clock society of the West.

Caravans of camel-mounted Rajasthani gypsies passed us by as we meandered through the forested Vindhya Hills. We stopped to feed monkeys as we drove dirt paths through the Pench jungles where tigers and wild buffalo roam free. We ate fresh raw vegetables and drank just-squeezed sugar cane juice in remote agricultural areas, ending up at a 500 year-old castle of a tribal chieftan. We throttled down to crawling speed in villages where antelope and deer wander the nearby fields like semi-tamed pets. We meditated in temples where worship has continued for thousands of years, crawled into caves where austere yogis live underground and swam in sacred rivers where quiet sages spend all day contemplating the river of life. Once in the middle of nowhere, we met two Italian nuns drawn there by their faith. We explored Kokha, the ancient village of the murderous thuggee cult, and saw the tree where the British officer Colonel William Sleeman hanged over five hundred of them. The thuggee ringleaders captured by Sleeman received a more arduous punishment than mere hanging; Col. Sleeman had their heads crushed like melons underneath the foot of an elephant. (For more on the thuggees, the origin of the English word thug, rent the 1990’s Pierce Brosnan flick, The Deceivers.) 

In one village we found ourselves as guests at the mansion of Ramesh Gupta, the leader of a political rally and who was running for office. During the campaign speeches, the opposition party was seen bribing voters with bottles of country whiskey. This opposition leader would give one bottle to all voters who agreed to vote for him, and two bottles to those who were expected to vote against him. Why? Because those who drank two bottles would likely be too hung over to cast any sort of ballot the next day. Our host’s son had the men who were passing out the free booze all arrested and their truckloads of bad spirits were confiscated. Later, at a fair of tribal dancers, the young men doing a peacock dance stopped their show to drag me on stage with them. I danced in my motorcycle boots and riding vest, and a photo of the event appeared in the next day’s local newspaper. These peacock dancers are descendants of Africans who had settled in India over five centuries ago, but who still cling to their customs.

One thing about motorcycles is clear; those two wheels we love generate a language that is universal to riders all over the world. When those wide chrome handlebars are under your control and your shifting is smooth, there is no border, no measurement of years, and no difference in skin color. What you do have is the earth rotating beneath your wheels, and the sun or moon illuminating your path from above. You’ve got wind rushing by carrying with it the intoxicating scent of the woodlands, and the friendly waves of children along the roadway. For Indian riders, just as it is for us, bikes are The Great Equalizers, all riders are brothers and sisters and the ride is the religion with the magic handiwork of God and Nature seen on all sides.

My Indian riding buddy, Sadar Anukarana Singh, is well-known among the sub-continent’s tightly-knit society of cruising riders. Anuji, as he is known, disclosed to us many of his favorite rides, his secret roadways and his sacred shrines. When my Royal Enfield Bullet, which I keep stored in India, needed a wash, tune-up, oil change, new battery, tube, rearview mirrors and a few new parts, Anuji obtained a loaner Bullet for me so that I could continue exploring the side roads of a sub-continent alongside him, never to suffer any downtime or separation from The Way. It’s good to know that the brotherhood of the biker stretches beyond all boundaries. So much so that CruiserCustomizing is now shipping parts to India!

For those of you who would like to know about riding India, you can order my book Motorcycle Yoga: Meditative Rides Through India from CruiserCustomizing. Those of you who might like to cruise the Indian sub-continent with me on a Royal Enfield 500cc single can e-mail me at pavandas@sbcglobal.net with your questions. Let’s ride.

Miles Davis, (Pavandas)
Editor, Cruiser Customizing News

Read CruiserCustomizing Newsletter #68


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